Rajasthan - May 2008
On 29 September 2008 Sfinx Members from Melbourne, Paris, Hong Kong, London, Florida, Phoenix, Rotterdam, Sydney and Cheshire assembled in a beautiful hotel in Miraflores, a beautiful suburb of Lima, capital of Peru. Meeting for welcome cocktails followed by dinner at the magnificent Mangoes restaurant.
The following day we explored the sights of Lima; the promenades, the palaces, the Cathedral, the Monastery of San Francisco and the colonial churches that illustrate the city’s Spanish heritage. Moving to the Rafael Larco Herrera Museum, one of the largest private collections, containing a fascinating array of beautifully modeled pottery, unique gold and silver work, mummies and erotic ceramics from the pre-Inca civilizations, and a lovely luncheon in one of the courtyards….by which time we were demanding more of the powerful drinks Pisco Sour, that we were introduced to only the day before. Another treat was in store that evening as we dined at the Rose Nautica, a beautiful restaurant located on an old British style pier on Lima Bay.
Flying up to the old Inca capital, Cuzco, high in the Andes we were absolutely delighted to be staying in the magnificent Monasterio hotel, a former Monastery as the name implies, and an utterly exquisite hotel. After lunch in the garden we spent the remainder of the day acclimatising to the 3,310 metre above sea level city, and of course, exploring and shopping and enjoying this amazing place, remarkable for its colonial churches, monasteries and extensive Inca ruins, all of which we visited the following day with our expert guide including the Plaza de Armas (the main square), the Cathedral, Santo Domingo church, the surrounding ruins of Kenko and Tambo Machay and the renowned fortress of Sacsayhuaman.
On day five we arrived at the station to be handed a glass of champagne prior to boarding luxury Hiram Bingham train to Machu Picchu for a private guided tour of the ruins. Churango music and fabulous Peruvian songs made our voyage very atmospheric, as did the amazing scenery as we travelled into the high mountains and our three course brunch. The first sight you get of this magnificent place will stay with you forever, as will our private meditation and Blessing at the sacred alter: remember the soft voice of a woman at the entrance saying “we need to give these women space, there is something very special going on in here”. For centuries Machu Picchu was buried in jungle until the American historian Hiram Bingham stumbled upon it, almost by accident, in 1911. Although little is known about the “Lost City of the Incas” it is obvious, by the quality of the stonework and the abundance of ornamental sites, that Machu Picchu must have been an important ceremonial centre. A wonderful afternoon tea was served at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary hotel to refresh us after our hours amongst the amazing ruins.
Staying just beneath Machu Picchu at Aguas Calientes in the environmentally created hotel the Inkaterra gave us a second opportunity to visit the ruins and some of us instead enjoyed the beautiful gardens and the local markets.
On the train again at twilight heading for Ollantaytambo and Urubmba, where we stayed at a charming hotel with magnificent gardens. Located in the sacred valley of the Incas where we spent our last full day exploring the pre-Hispanic temples and terraces. We were all enchanted with the magnificent Inca fortress of Ollantaytambo. In the upper and western part of the city rises a mountain with houses and innumerable pre-Hispanic constructions such as crafted temples and terraces. The archaeological complex itself was a gigantic agricultural, administrative, social, religious and military centre in the era of the Tahuantinsuya. Today’s tour also visited the bustling Indian market at Pisac where local Indians from different communities congregate to trade their goods, not only in money but also by barter. We bargained for and bought some very beautiful Indian handicrafts; and en route to Cusco visited the Indian town of Chinchero (3,762m) which boasts a beautiful colonial church with paintings by the famous indigenous artist, Chiwantito. Back in Cusco and our farewell dinner at the MAP Café, located inside the Museo de Arte Pre Colombian) on the Plaza Nazarenas adjacent to our hotel in Cuzco.
During our time here in Peru we had several presentations by Sfinx members that were informative and memorable. Jan, a Secret Agent all her working life, gave us an extraordinary session on body language in Lima; whilst in Machu Picchu, Buzz, the only one of us who had been here before (when she lived in South America in the late 70’s) gave a talk on the significance of the lost city; Veronique, a financial strategist for many years in Asia, gave a talk on financial strategies, and Marcella, an expert on the properties and powers of essential oils gave us not only a dilly bag full of beautiful oils to try, but a most informative and interesting talk. At the end of our time in Cuzco we had a wonderful networking session, each person being asked to bring a business or personal challenge for input by the group. Each presentation was a gift to the group in terms of knowledge, expertise and generosity, and for which the Sfinx collaboration is famous.
Whilst six members had to hurry back home, the other six of us took the opportunity whilst in Latin America to head south to Bolivia.
Heading south was a 10 hour train trip across the Peruvian and Bolivian altiplano, where nothing grows other than potatoes and the inhabitants live in very sparse communities. Another Orient Express, the train had large picture windows, and a glass walled observation carriage with an open rear section. As we had grown to expect, a lavish luncheon was served on board. This journey is considered by some to be one of the great train journeys of the world. We will pass through starkly beautiful landscapes and many small villages before arriving at Juliaca where the train stops for a short time before continuing to Puno (3,855m).
Situated on the shores of Lake Titicaca, this altiplano city’s history revolves round the Quechua and Aymara natives who, over centuries, have managed to sustain a productive lifestyle in a most extraordinary region. Puno’s location makes it a good starting point for exploring Lake Titicaca’s Peruvian environs and islands.
After breakfast the following day we spent an absolutely fascinating morning with the Uros Indians who live on floating ‘totora’ reed islands on Lake Titicaca. The lives of the Uros are completely interwoven with the totora reed that grows abundantly in the shallow waters of Lake Titicaca. We also took a ride on one of the reed boats. Given that the area and Lake Titicaca has the reputation as a very spiritual place, it is hardly surprising that some of us were forced to sleep that afternoon…..to be surprised upon awaking that it had actually snowed around the hotel!
The day travelling from Puno to La Paz was exceptional, crossing the Peruvian/Bolivian border excepted! At Copacabana we visited the main plaza and the great Moorish-styled Cathedral, famous for its statue of the Dark Virgin, patron saint of Bolivia before boarding a catamaran for the crossing of Lake Titicaca. Along the way we visited Sun Island where it is said the Inca Empire began, visiting the Inca Garden, Inca Steps and the Inca Water Spring. Our meeting with the Medicine Man was a profound experience for us all as we shared the ancient Kallawaya ceremony before entering the Inti Wata Cultural Complex which houses the largest collection of Sun Island archaeological and anthropological items.
Arriving at La Paz around 7.30 pm, we headed out for dinner amongst the narrow and busy streets. Set at an altitude of 3,636m, La Paz, Bolivia’s commercial capital is the highest city of its size in the world. Founded in 1548, it lies in a natural basin surrounded by imposing snow-covered mountain peaks and dominated by Mount Illimani (6,402m).
After breakfast the following day we enjoyed a half day city sightseeing tour of La Paz which includes a visit to a typical Indian street market and the famous witches’ market, old colonial La Paz with its cobbled streets, passing the San Francisco colonial church and Plaza Murillo where the Cathedral, Government Palace and National Congress buildings are located. Leaving La Paz, travel south through the residential areas to visit the natural wonder of Moon Valley with its weird lunar landscape and eroded earth pillars. After lunch we went back to the Witches Market for an amazing and wonderful shopping experience and then had Dinner at La Comedie, well known as an Art Café Restaurant.
And so ended our wonderful time in Peru and Bolivia, full of richness, colour, altitude challenges for some, beautiful purchases for us all and another rich and sacred Sfinx experience.